Tuesday, February 2, 2010

..one more unforgettable trip



Swami Sharanam!!

I have been here as many as six times. However, that doesn't matter. Each time I have learnt something new. However, this time there was something special in store for me, something, which I have always heard from experienced guruswamies.

In May 2009, Mahesh asked me whether I would join him to visit Sabarimala. Instantly, I agreed. This was the simplest of all itineraries I ever seen. I was to seek darshan of Lord Ayyappa and reach home in two days. Not many people can even think to make such a short trip to Sabarimala. Our short plan: I would board a plane to Cochin on 15th August meet Mahesh on the same day. We both proceed to Sabarimala on 15th itself. Reach Pamba that night. Trek up the hill late night at 0200. Seek early morning darshan on 16th August. Trek down that afternoon. And, finally board a plane back to Mumbai. It's all His blessings that I can afford to be a “Modern Sanyasi”. According to me, Modern Sanyasis are those people who travel in planes and air-conditioned vehicles to Sabarimala.

My journey starts on day of independence from Mahesh’s new purchased bungalow in Tripunithura at 1630 hours. He had arranged an air-conditioned sedan. The driver was Saji. He is an experienced driver and has been doing this for past twenty-five years. Our trip would have been a little boring without him. We started with the nearest temple of Chottanikara devi. On our way, we took blessings from Vaikatappan, Etumanoorappan, Sivan at Kaduthuruty, Ganapati at Malliyoor and Karthikeyan at Udayanapuram. Until, 1930 hours we were blessed by Ganapati, Karthikeyan and Devi once, and Sivan thrice.

I was fast asleep until we reached Erumeli. We took Vavar Swami’s blessings and left at 2100 towards Pamba. After few kilometers, our driver found that there was nobody going towards or coming back from Pamba. He was repeatedly asking questions about our visit to Sabarimala during monthly poojas. As an hour passed, he was being irritated and started to speak with himself. He kept saying “Abadhham petti poyi. Ee samayathil waran paddilla”. “We have made a big blunder. We shouldn't have come at this time”.

We kept quiet and allowed him to speak. I saw few closed shops in the distance of every five kilometers. As we reached halfway, Saji stopped the car for the break. He stepped outside and started smoking. We also stepped outside. All through the journey, we were listening to the bhakti ganangal, the devotional songs. As I stepped outside, I could only hear the insects buzzing and frogs croaking. Due to car’s headlight, I was able to see what was there few meters ahead. Beyond that, nothing was seen. It was pitch black. I realised why Saji was so scared. Here is a small blurred video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxCYrhAA6hI that would describe the exact situation. They both are speaking in Malayalam. Saji says, “No vehicle is seen on the road”, and Mahesh’s reply “there would be many vehicles in Pamba”, though an irrelevant answer, it managed to divert Saji’s attention. We could also hear the frog croaking. We entered the car and Saji started driving with the same comments and expression on his face.

Nilackal passed by. He started narrating his experiences of animal attacks. As we were talking about elephants, suddenly Saji applied the brake. We saw animals standing in-between the road. The car’s headlight reflected in their eyes. To our relief it was a heard of cows. Mahesh was as usual calm and quiet. We reached the toll station near Pamba and found nobody there to collect the toll. At 2345, we reached Pamba. There was hardly any vehicle parked. I thought about the reply, that Mahesh gave to Saji an hour back. We came to our patented room number 12 at Ayyappa Seva Sangham. It was 0030.

As we had planned to trek down by 0900 the next day, we had to start the uphill trek by 0230. We got up at 0130 and went to have a bath in Pamba. Ice-cold water was flowing with great speed. We could see nobody on the riverbanks. We both were the first people to have a bath in pure Pamba. Pure in all sense! At 0215, we started our march towards Sannidhanam. We reached Pamba Ganapati temple and found out that there was nobody around. As we reached the bottom of Neelimalai (the point where trekking starts), I saw the path was illuminated with dim tube lights in every fifty meters. There was a slight fog cover. The either side of the path was dense forest with huge trees and wild bushes. Nothing was seen other than the path. We could hear the insects buzzing very loudly. I got a little scared but as I saw Mahesh’s fearless face, the fear in my heart flew away. We started chanting Swamiye Sharanam Ayyappa and marched. After covering few meters of ground, I stood and saw behind to find out that there was nobody. I was behind Mahesh. At many instances, Mahesh would stop and stare at the path ahead as if something is there on the path. I could only see the deserted path ahead. The fear that flew away sometime back again crept inside. I started asking him why is he standing and why is he staring at only direction. His answer was only three words “Swamiye Sharanam Ayyappa”.

We reached midway and there was still some ground to be covered. Suddenly, Mahesh stood like a stone staring up the path. He stood still, controlling his breath. I saw him and whispered “Kya hua?”, “What happened?” Without looking at me he raised his eyebrows a couple of times gesturing me to look towards where he was staring. As I looked up the dim path, at a distance of less than hundred meters I saw a huge animal that would be atleast ten feet tall. Its eyes were shining in the twilight. I saw it was staring back at us. In fraction of a second, it jumped inside the thick forest towards and vanished. For that moment, I could not utter a word. Then I realised that it was a deer. We climbed that patch of land faster. When we reached the spot where the deer was standing, we heard footsteps of a mammal passing through the bushes on the other side. We tried to look into to thick dark forest. Nothing was visible. Suddenly, the mammal ran in a lightning speed downhill. We had no option to run uphill at the same time. I did not know what it was. However, Mahesh was sure that it was a wild cat, which was following the deer. Our climbing speed increased after this incident. We reached Appachimedai. It was 0315. The path was covered with dense fog and was hardly visible. Tube lights were not in working condition for few hundred meters. We had to use small torch to walk.

I could see a group of people climbing down. When they crossed us, one of them said “Swami, kovil vainerame thorukkullu”. I knew the meaning all the words except the word “vaineram”. I asked Mahesh what is the meaning. He kept quiet and did not answer anything. He then removed his cell phone in middle of the forest and started searching for something. I insisted him to speak. Finally, he told what the man said. “Swami, the temple would open in the evening”. Mahesh was of the view that the temple would be open for the people on Saturday (i.e. the previous day) and we could get the darshanam on the next day. The person’s statement had various interpretations 1) we are twelve hours early visiting the temple and 2) in twelve hours we would be in the flight to Mumbai without the darshanam”. In short we would not get the darshanam. Mahesh was trying to find the document that stated the opening and closing dates for monthly poojas. He was not able to locate the document in his cell phone. Finally, he kept it inside and we started walking. Even If he had found the correct dates in the middle of the forest, we would not have trekked towards Pamba at that time of the day.

At last, we could see few tube lights from a distance. We reached the Sabarimala at 0400. As we entered the queue shed, we could not find anybody. The shed was empty. This shed is generally crowded with people when temple is open. We covered the last steps as fast as possible. We saw the Eighteen Holy steps. I was very happy to see the sight again with in a span of three months. We saw the closed temple gate, which confirmed that temple would open that evening. Various thoughts went through Mahesh’s mind. I felt that Ayyappa doesn't want to see us rather He doesn't want us to see him and seek his blessings. I could only see few local people and security guards going here and there. Suddenly, Mahesh asked me whether I was fine with rescheduling the flight tickets to the next day. I did not even think for a moment to say a “yes”. We sat near the Eighteen Steps. It was dark and cold. We decided to take a rest for sometime. The moment I lay down, I slept.

When we go to Sabarimala, we are always in a great hurry to seek the darshan and move out. Hardly we get time to see and enjoy the nature. After one and half-hours, my eyes opened. I could hear the birds chirping very loudly from the four huge trees opposite the Eighteen Steps. I have never bothered to see those trees before. These birds were amazing and I had never seen these kind birds in the past. They had white striped body with a long tail, which made them look very beautiful. The bird’s chirp sounded like songs. I never found Sabarimala to be so peaceful. I have tried to grab this in a video and I would be very happy to share it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBUh-2kDciU. At around 0800, we informed at our places that we would be returning the next day.

People started pouring in. Many of them were surprised to see the temple closed. Time passed by and we were roaming around the vicinity. Small food joints started their operations by afternoon - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0XmpioU0lQ. I was bored and started asking Mahesh few questions about Sabarimala and Lord Ayyappa. After a while, he started speaking about many things. He described many things that are in and around the Sabarimala; he shared his past experiences, he spoke about the various aspects and importance of Noimbu. Noimbu is the Malayalam word for the forty-one days fasting before going to Sabarimala - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc-AUCP5t8U . He also speaks about the similarity between Ayyappa and a person visiting Sabarimala. He also

Then he spoke about the incident, which occurred, seven hours back. The Ayyappa veertham has a couple of sentences, which fits into the incident that occurred - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npGWOm-Y6fM. There were many things, of which I was not aware. As I mentioned earlier, each time I come here I learn something new.


By the time it was 1300, there were many people around. The place was crowded and the birds on the trees were not seen and heard. I was very tired and fell asleep near the Eighteen Steps. It is good that the temple is not open for 365 days. Just imagine the extent encroachment of forestland, if the temple were accessible to humans for 365 days. Suddenly, I felt a jerk. I saw Mahesh waking me up. He wanted to show me something very interesting. I followed him in half sleep. He pointed his fingers to a group of people standing near the temple guards’ station and said something, which was not audible. As my sleep started to fade, I realized that those were the Thanthries and Melshanties of the temple. They are the people who conduct the prayer rituals inside the temple. It was 1430, and we had no clue as to why these people are standing outside and not moving inside. Generally, these people are given entry from gate for temple guards. We saw Kandararu Maheswararu, head of priests, talking over the phone very loudly. They did not enter the temple due to some problem. Then we saw Kandararu Mohanaru, son of Kandararu Maheswararu, standing alone in one corner of the group. Mohanaru was expelled from the Sabarimala temple for a well-known incident that happened in the past. It came to our knowledge that Mohanaru wanted to enter the temple. But, the police guards did not allow him to enter. The father tried his level best to solve this but all the attempts went futile. We saw the father Maheswararu’s face. He appeared very offended. I had only heard that Sabarimala is a place, where everyone is equal. I witnessed that as well. The person who used perform the daily prayer was not allowed to enter the temple. This is, as if HE is telling I do not need your service. Considering the interests of the devotees, Maheswararu decided to enter the temple without his son.
( Kandararu Maheswararu)
(Kandararu Mohanaru - center)
We were waiting for the temple gate to be open for us. We killed the time by sitting near the bookstall. By the time it was 1630 the whole area was crowded. We stood in the queue for the darshan. As we did not have the Irumudi kattu, we are not allowed to enter the temple from the Eighteen steps. Instead, we were standing in a different queue would enter the temple from the other side.

I captured few moments while I was moving on for the darshan. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMcMhnMgggY and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrltR_u50jY) It was raining and the adjacent mountains were looking very beautiful. People were chanting Swamiye Sharanam Ayyappa continuously. By 1830, we got our darshan. We started climbing down. The rain was pouring very heavily. The number of devotees climbing up was increasing and all of them were chanting “Swami Ayyappa”. I could not imagine the quantum of magnetic power that this place possesses. A devotee while moving down would surely think of coming back again. This place has a power to recall a same person atleast twice.

After we reached mid-way, I was thinking about something. I did not know Mahesh was also thinking about the same. After sometime, he asked “Don’t you think it is getting longer for us to get down?” I replied, “Yes, I was thinking about the same. This route was much easier and we took less time to climb up. I don’t know why I have that feeling.” Usually it takes less time to climb down. Then I recollected the whole incident, which took place the other night. It was not possible to come out alive from a place that is located in-between one of 27 Tiger Reserve projects in India. There was somebody behind, who was taking care of us. I realized it was because of that “Somebody”, we climbed the mountain faster and reached safely. And, it is because of that “Somebody”, I am able to narrate this story. We reached Pamba at 2000. Our driver Saji was waiting for us. We left Pamba at 2030 and reached back at Mahesh’s house at 0200 in the morning.

I took very long time to pen this story down, almost six months has passed by. The conversations between Mahesh and me went on for couple of hours that afternoon. During our talks, Mahesh mentioned his plan to visit Sabarimala again in February 2010, and asked whether I was interested. I was ready. He took a promise from me that I would accompany at least three first timers (Kanni Ayyappas) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRzpvY5cj4U. I do not know why I promised, as most of my friends as ashiest. Once again, Mahesh reminded me of the promise. I did not reply because I knew I would not be able to keep it I knew nobody would come. Therefore, on 9th December, I booked my tickets for February visit to Sabarimala. A day later when I was mentioning about my trip to my friends two of them expressed their willingness to come with me. Now I will accompany the two Kanni Ayyappas to Sabarimala ;-)

Sharanam Ayyappa!!